Category: El Camino

I realize in my posts when I write about conversations I have with Spaniards, I write as if we are having a real conversational interaction. If I am lucky, the person has a little English. And if they are lucky, I can find a few Spanish words. With our apartment landlord, as with most, it is all sign language and the use of my translator at times which is helpful but clumsy. In the midst of it all we both have a look of “aye yai yai!”But then we understand and we are all smiles and Gracias! Gracias! Mucho Gracias!! When we started out we had Jonathan to rely on but I have had about 5 days being on my own with being understood. A good, if at times trying, challenge.

I was laughing about talking to a taxi driver on the phone trying to set up a time for pick up. I was using my hands to explain Di’s bad knees so he could understand why we needed a ride .7 kilometers away. Of course he could not receive any of my sign language. Today we are barreling down a winding mountain road with our taxi driver doing the same thing on the phone, talking with his hands, sometimes both hands at the same time. Poor Di gets placed in the front seat and is putting her hands out in fear as he runs a stop sign.

Every day holds a surprise and lately it is our accommodation. The Camino is getting very crowded and getting a room is challenging. We have been booking ahead by at least a day. We have been using booking.com and while we have somewhat of a picture we don’t ever quite know. Last night it was the surprise of our Albergue being on the opposite side of the river from a town in the hills which is a challenge for Di. Today it was to find our cottage in Palas de Res practically the last house on the edge of town. Both have been the perfect place to have landed offering beauty, comfort, and interest but the first sight is usually “oh, no!” It lasts a minute or two and then we see why we were guided here. Today you will easily see the beauty in the photos of the cottage which is a converted grist mill including the cottage being built over running water, as well as the walking path next to the cottage that Chris and I walked 3 miles round trip.

Di did walk into the square with us in this our new town for lunch, getting about 4 K on the Camino. It is hard on her but sitting is equally hard with arthritis, so she is opting for walking when she can. We are slowly increasing our Kilometers on the Camino.

On the way back from the square, Chris and I took a little detour onto the Camino path leaving Di to walk a couple blocks on the sidewalk. After I startled some sheep a Spaniard man about 70+ came out of his basement home to talk to us. It was hard to tell his age due to some missing teeth and old weathered skin. He invited us to take a picture of the walnuts he was drying in the sun then wanted to know where we were from. When he heard USA he was very excited telling us in broken English he had worked on a ship and had been in New York, Montreal, and New Orleans and bouncing around on a ship during Hurricane Katrina. He told us he was willing to sell us his house for 15,000 euros and would like to move back to New York if he could find a good woman. He was a sweet man enjoying an interaction but we quickly told him we needed to move on. In good cheer, he wished us a Buen Camino and I think enjoyed the interaction, it gave us a good chuckle.

We looked today for a couple from Florida, Martha and Pedro, that we met in the laundromat in Ponforrada that we very much enjoy but trust we will see them in Santiago.

Tomorrow Chris is going to walk to Melide while Di and I taxi and then walk.

This is a very different Camino than Chris, Di, and I ever imagined but we each marvel at what a perfectly wonderful Camino this trip holds. We have time to see and experience where we are, meaningful conversation, space to reflect and write, and time for laughter and stories.

Chris, Di, and I taxied to Portomarin along with Rob. After clocking the driver at 115K per hour down a mountain road, the driver dropped us at our Albergue and we were surprised to see it was across the river from town. We lost the taxi but checked in and asked the person here to call us a taxi to town for Di and Rob. The dispatcher thought we were crazy. Who needs a ride for a mile when he is so busy? He did not show so Di decided she wanted to walk the distance. She did well with her pain meds, knee brace and support socks and poles and it was on the Camino.

We sat in the square and had a pilgrim meal waiting for Bev to arrive. She was the only one who walked today, 22.7 K in 6.5 hours. Rob and Di cannot walk, I am here for Di and Chris decided to take a break since she did the full Camino already. Mary and Jonathan split off and walked to Samos yesterday to a monastery. They will probably catch up tomorrow night.

The pilgrim meal is always five choices for first course and five for second with wine and dessert. All for 10 euro. Way more than we should eat when not walking but some days it is the best option.

Another couple we have enjoyed and met at the laundromat in Ponferrada, walked by and we all reconnected with hopes to all see each other in Santiago.

We are running out of room on our compostella so bought another one at the church. We walked around the town and headed back to the albergue. Everyone is really tired tonight but it was a good day with a good meal and we scored with this lovely accommodation. We are on the river. Stunning.

Tomorrow we head to Palas De REI. Many people are starting in Sarria so the sleeping accommodations are getting booked out but so far we have been doing well. We walk a little every day.

Not enough power tonight. Photos on Facebook.

You will see the sweet town in the photos and the bridge we crossed, Di walking past her age she is celebrating, and a photo of Rob and Bev.

Di and I had breakfast in the apartment, oranges, croissants and tea. We then proceeded to do our laundry and re pack. Di’s knees are really bad from yesterday’s track through the city so sit is all she can do. She was back in bed at 10 and slept hard until noon and I enjoyed my time writing. By the time I got the laundry complete and we were eating lunch, Chris arrived. She also had trouble finding the apartment but in the process ran into Rob and Bev. Rob had a torn retina and they repaired it at the hospital in Lugo. He cannot walk el camino and will need to go back to the hospital on Monday. Bev found someone to walk with and will continue on for the both of them. We will taxi today to Portomarin with Rob. Chris and I went out and had lunch. We found a great little place with very fresh salad and pizza. It was so large we brought some back to Di then added roasted veggies to it and had it again for dinner. Chris and I then searched out a church, groceries, ATM, then back to Di. Rob and Bev found our place and showed up for a few hours. All in all a good day, good spirits and looking forward to a new day of Camino adventure.

Continue reading “Day 12/Sept 23 el Camino/Resting in Sarria”

I awoke this morning thinking of all I have learned and remembered so far on this journey.

By day three my pack was part of my body. I knew the rhythm of my walk and felt the comfort of the pack as we reached higher elevation. We each have to assess our own pack, our pace, our rhythm. No matter how many people you attach to even if you do this journey alone or with a group you alone know your capacity and must respond to this awareness. This is a life lesson as we find comfort in relationship with one person or a group of friends. Taking the time to be with the inner voice of guidance and trusting the ground of knowing advances us in ways that support our whole being.

We know and we don’t know. As I think back on my first introduction to this trip,

I remember my “No” to the invitation. A year later, with the reduction in miles I decided I would go for Di but also for myself. I had to make the trip for me to be satisfying. And I did, but I rarely told anyone I was going. The trip had an unreal feel. A month before we left, I told Di that whenever I thought of the trip I saw us in hotels with a suitcase not a backpack. My intuition initially said, “no” but then it said, “yes” as I could not let Di go alone. I feel I am exactly in the right place and fluidity, adaptability, trusting, rather than holding on to my original belief have allowed me to be here.

“Keep you thoughts raised high.” From the poem Ithaka which spoke to me for the journey. Each day we are surrounded by people who are helpful, caring, eager for connection, and add joy to our spirit. It is not everyone but to those I offer a silent blessing and move on. There is something special about the Camino. There is an energy that moves you along with the blessings of many who offer greeting along the way. If we could bring this spirit of greeting each other, acknowledging the pilgrim, peregrino, that we each are, could we not uplift the face of humanity? We have met the face of Korea, Australia, Japan, Germany, Peru, Switzerland, Mexico, Canada, and many more from around the world. These are the real people, this is the real energy of life and love, not the face of the angry politician. Whatever our religious or spiritual beliefs we are all traveling the road of life and we forget that we are all in this together. We need each other to bring us along.

Choose your companions wisely.

Spiritual masters encourage carefulness in who we travel this life path with. People who allow you to follow your inner guidance, help ‘keep your thoughts raised high,’ support you in finding and being your own true self. In the challenging moments it is good to find what we can be grateful for and allow laughter and song to keep us willing to continue on. We don’t want to be traveling with less. We have had good companions on this journey.

There is no one sure pure way to walk the Camino.

As I read forums to prepare for this trip, there were individuals who offered their way of doing the journey, how to pack, how to carry your pack, where to sleep and on. There are discussions that anything less is not the true pilgrim way. We do the same thing with religion, states, countries, clothing, whatever the object might be, what we know appears best for all. Diane’s legs no longer work to move forward on but we are moving forward with all the Camino has to offer. We have met daily people who have started and ended the journey in various locations. They are all headed to Santiago whether this year or another. We meet people who pack a suitcase and have it portered, those who carry everything on their back, those who do not want to know where they will sleep and those who book a year ahead. The Camino is not about the pack or the road or the bed but what is in your heart and how you offer that heart to others. How we care for each other and serve in our own unique ways. My son, Brian, reminded me this morning in his response what my dad, his grandpa, an old train master, would say, “life isn’t about the tracks, but the switches that move us forward, one track to another.” Thank you dear Brian for this reminder of words that had deep meaning to your grandpa but we only now profoundly understand.

What I brought has served me well.

I gave a lot of thought to what I would carry on my back. I eliminated some items I wish I had but knew weight would be important for me. There is nothing new about thinking about excess but it is so very evident when you are perfectly happy with 16 lbs on your back to meet your daily needs besides food and water. Some have gotten that down to 10 lbs but I am not going there. We have met people who have now moved into a small condo so they can keep walking the world. There is some comfort in feeling the freedom of less and knowing it is possible whether we live it day to day or not.

Walking the world

It is quite amazing to make the statement, “We are only doing 12 miles today.” When there is a destination, when there are stops along the way with food and water and people wishing you well all along the way and you have a bed to sleep in at night with a good meal it is very possible and desirable. Being out each day in nature and walking, not being the one zooming down the road at 70 mph feels so very good. Surprisingly good. One step after another. Looking. No thought of to do’s. It is a good way to live. I am a novice and watching people prance up and down these hills is humbling, not just the young but in years greater than mine. People who walk.

The Blessing of Patient People

Each day we have been blessed with people who are patient in our fumbling with language. From finding out what happened to Rob and Bev, to finding our lodgings, to calling a taxi, on and on. There is no greater gift than being patient with each other and no greater challenge at times. It is a virtue that drives everything and allows for compassion and resilience as we are first patient with ourselves.

Finally, from Frederic Gros, when we walk, “None of your knowledge, your reading, your connections will be of any use here.” This knowledge might help me identify the bird or tree or use a phone in a foreign land but it will not give me presence, awe, gentleness, compassion, patience or peace of heart. For those, I need the space and the willingness to allow the “still small voice within” (Gandhi) to guide and uplift from “the spring of life,” the heart. “Wherever I am there is God.” (Eckhardt)

We are resting with a cup of tea in Our apartment in Sarria after a trying day. We are living the Camino, no need to walk.

Chris, Mary and Jonathan started out early and Di and I went down for breakfast about 7:30 and met up with Rob and Bev our dear Camino friends from Vancouver. Rob had started having blurry vision in his right eye yesterday afternoon while on the camino. He awoke to continued blurry vision this morning so decided to go to the clinic behind the hotel and get checked. We sat and visited with Bev. After about an hour the clinic receptionist came and whisked Bev away. Di and I sat for another half hour then I went over to the clinic to check on them and give them my email address. The receptionist explained that they had been transported by ambulance to a hospital in Lugo about 60 K away. We struggled with how we could contact them with no phone service to even leave a message at the hospital. Then I remembered they had a room booked in Sarria tomorrow night and I had slipped Bev our address if they wanted to connect. So we shall see. We hope and pray for the best.

Di and I were taxied by taxi Ana today over to Sarria. She taxied us yesterday and we were pleased but today she let us down. She did not know our destination address and had her dispatcher look it up for her. She left us off over a mile away in the wrong location which by Camino standards is nothing but for a woman with blown out knees it was eternity. We had our two packs and afternoon heat and hills and stairs and circles as people did not know the street and on and on. Finally a bar owner knew and carefully directed me. I left Di, checked in 3 hours after the expected time went back and got Di and the packs and we both sat catatonic for a bit. After breathing, food was our only thought. All the restaurants were closed for siesta but we set out. We came upon a grocery and put together a very satisfying meal. Again we are very proud of this day with no English, and we did land in a very good place. We are happy to stay in one place for two nights.

I just read this to Di and she is laughing so hard she is crying. I think she approves this message. She said, “This is the strangest road to Santiago.”

We left Villafranca del Bierzo this morning about 10:30 and taxied to Pedrafita do Cabreiro, off the beaten path with no beds in 0’Cebreiro. We enjoyed a happy exuberant taxi driver who between Spanish, English and sign had fun explaining his beloved home region to us. We then dropped our packs at the hotel , explored the market and watched the boiling of octopus, a specialty in this region. We then taxied to O’Cebreiro. It is a small quaint hamlet with Celtic roots and the church of Iglesias de Santa Maria Real from the 9th century. The oldest church on the Camino associated with the pilgrim Way. Jon was the only one who walked this day with Mary and Chris taking a day of rest.

We ate our main meal and for two days were able to get paella as we start to enter the region of Galicia. We ran into the young ones, Corrine, Brendan, Molly and Phillip. Corrine suffered bad bed bugs and is on steroids and antibiotics.

4:30 pm We are now back at our hotel in the cafe and Bev and Rob just arrived so will be joining us for dinner.

Diane and I are making our plan for moving forward. She can walk with her sticks but slow and careful.

10:00 pm We are back in our room after 4 hours in the dining room sharing stories and laughter. Chris bought a large bottle of vermouth because she wanted the pretty bottle so we wished Bev and Rob goodnight with a night cap.

Chris, Mary and Jon are walking on tomorrow and Di and I are taking the taxi to Sarria. Our new plan is to find as many spots on the Camino that are surfaces Di can walk and try to finish the best we are able. Di and I will be alone in Sarria for two days as the others catch up. It will be a real test of coping with language but we have been getting by pretty well.

Peace.

We gave buen Camino hugs to Mary, Chris and Jonathan this morning at 7:30 as they left Ponferrada. I felt some sadness not leaving on the path as well but I also feel content and in the right place staying with Di. Maybe there is another Camino in my future. Either way, all is well. Di is improving. She is on top of the pain and the swelling is going down. We sat and had tea and now went for a short walk to chocolate croissants and fresh squeezed orange juice, ‘Zumo, fresh.’

We have been calculating and making a new plan. We have walked about 55 miles so far and rose to the highest peak at about 5,000 ft and the iconic Cruz de Ferro. That is a third of our journey. I have looked ahead at the coming elevations and that will not be possible for Di with too many ascents and descents at high elevation. Di feels she would like to try the last 35 mikes into Santiago (and courier her pack) which has a few up and down but at a relatively level elevation. That would give us over half of the journey. It would be about a week out and I think she could be strong enough to do it or part of a day and taxi part.

Our new plan includes enjoying each day with each new location as we taxi forward. Walking on level surfaces we can site see, sit at cafes, read and enjoy in a different way.

Part 2

Di and I arrived at our hotel in Villafranca de Bierzo and as we were dropped off by the taxi at our hotel, Bev and Rob from Vancouver were waving at us and calling our names from the cafe next door. A welcome treat. After checking in Di and I had three hours with them with vino blanco, tapas and then paella. Lots of sharing of life stories. A Wonderful couple. Such excitement after meeting only two days ago. Mary, Chris and Jonathan arrived about 4:00 tired and hungry. The heat had returned, not bad in town but hot on the trail. Mary has a much worse blister and Chris is encountering some as well. The three did 15 miles today.

I took a walk around town here and found the correct adapter and some fruit. My Spanish is mucho limited but I am doing well with what I have. I came back and told Di, let’s stay here for a week and meet up wth the others later. Her’s was an instant yes but it was a fantasy, we will stay with the group.

You will be getting very different posts going forward. The other three declared needing a rest as well. So we are taking a taxi late morning to O’cebreiro. An important place they want to see with the oldest church associated with the pilgrim way is in this hamlet. The church marks the final resting place of Don Sampedro. 1929-1989. A priest who restored and furthered the Camino and adjoining hostel with a monastic settlement from the 11th century and Queen Isabella stayed here in 1486 on her own personal pilgrimage. It is hard to find a bed but our hosteler helped and found 5 beds.

I did promise more on Cruz de Ferro. I haven’t forgotten but again it will have to wait. I would like to say it well and the day gets so full it is hard to find the time for reflection.

It is 8 pm and the city is just coming to life in the cafe’. I am in my bed. Di is in her’s reading and the other three went to mass at the monastery next door. They also have one at 8 am which would be better for me. We shall see.

Photos: Di is getting her pilgrimage out of a book, our room across from the castle in Ponferrada, the square in Bierzo.

My Cruz de Ferro reflection

Cruz de Ferro translates to iron cross. It is located at roughly 5,000 ft and for many on the journey a special place to reach. The cross is on a large mound of small rocks placed over many years by pilgrims representing letting something go or a blessing and reconnecting to the purpose of the journey. Most reach this height after walking about a month from St Jean Pied de Port, we reached it after 5 days. Chris has pointed out that we missed the month of conditioning they had when they did the full Camino 3 years ago.

My reflection actually began the day before when walking through the uphill section lined with crosses on our way to Rabanal. No matter who you go with, this journey is your journey. People are friendly, helpful, inquisitive but we all have only our legs and awareness to bring us forward. Even if one drops a pole there is no courteous spontaneous reach to bend down and grab it for you but everyone looking down at it assessing the situation. This is our life. We are all given tools to cope with the journey as best we can. We can assist each other, pray for each other, feel concern, but we cannot live another’s journey. We can’t protect each other from life. If we try, we only bring harm as we remove the struggle needed to learn and grow and thrive. The pain we feel in not being able to help is our pain to deal with.

My intention on the Way was to reflect on my service to those grieving loss, death, life changes and broken hearts. I listen, feel compassion, offer reflective questioning, witness, pray, encourage, laugh with, feel tears with, but I can’t fix or take away the pain. For the most part I feel good about what I can offer. At times I wish I could do more. In each of these encounters I also receive something, more life awareness, more awakening, more opening of heart, more opportunity for growth, gratitude for this work.

Walking past the crosses left by previous pilgrims I began to see and feel countless souls swirling around me. People I have encountered in some meaningful way whether I was aware of it or not. People who have died and people who are living but all people I have walked with and connected with on this life journey. This awareness followed me into the night and on through the morning’s journey to Cruz de Ferro. The feelings were of comfort, gratitude, peacefulness, inner smile with remembering, curiosity of souls I do not remember. At the cross, I offered a blessing to all these souls, wishing them well in life or in death as the case may be. As I left the cross I experienced a lightness as I am aware I will continue to move forward doing the work with an openness to where it takes me as this chapter with Hospice comes to a close. Individuals I meet on the Way offer me hints, visions of possibility. I need only stay open.

Buen Camino!

We are in Ponferrada sitting at a Laundromat. We taxied from Acebeo to Molinaseca as the path down the mountain today was to be just as treacherous as yesterday. We had a great breakfast there and relaxed. We then walked the next 7 k or so into Ponferrada. Di did well on the flat surfaces but then we got onto gravel again and that was rough for her.

It was a lovely day with sun and cool temps. We saw 18 Celsius and now it is a bit warmer. (In the mountains yesterday it was probably in the low 40’s F with wind chill.) We left Di sitting in the sun at a Cafe while we did the laundry. It was nice to get to a town, in this case city, early to rest and enjoy. We are staying across from the Knights Templar Castle in Hostel Virgen de la Encinitas which I sent a photo on Facebook. We are touring the castle when the laundry is done.

We got some more euros, vino blanco and tapas while charging phones and iPads and Jonathan showed up around 3:30. He walked our path from yesterday plus today but taxied his pack so made good time. He had better weather in the mountains. No wind and some sun which helped a lot.

I lost my hat somewhere yesterday and I really liked that hat. Now we need to shop for another.

We have been planning out a new Camino in the last hours. Di got to the hotel, walked up the stairs to the room we are sharing and declared exhaustion. I left the room to get something and when I returned she said she could not walk. Her knees are swollen and would not hold her up. She brought one sleeve for one knee and we bought another for the other knee on the way in but the swelling is too much. She ran out of her ibuprofen in the gel caps and nothing else is working. Jonathan is out scouting the farmacia’s for her but so far only the tablet form is found. Her body does not process that form. Jonathan did find a liquid form so will give that a try.

So, new plan. I promised Di before we left that we would stick together so she and I will let the others go on tomorrow and we will taxi to Cacabelos and meet them at a hotel. The goal is to keep Di off her feet as much as possible. She is in good hands with Mary, a Dr. and Jonathan a Nurse Practitioner and all of us who care.

I assured Di it is all Camino, it does not matter how we move. It has all been a joy, even the challenges. To Di’s familia, She is in good spirits, literally and figuratively with her vino blanco. Her only concern is holding the rest of us back. Everyone agrees it is not a problem. And it is true.

Everywhere we are we meet people who are walking the Camino. Many ways and many forms, different start points. Where are you from? When did you start? Buen Camino! Buenos Dias! Hola! Blessings! Are you okay? The locals are so friendly and helpful and in these small towns we are the economy. We meet our fellow pilgrims, share stories and move on. Then we meet again further along and everyone is thrilled, like meeting an old friend or at least familiar greeting. We met a couple from Florida while dong laundry. They fled the hurricane then returned quickly to check on things, get their luggage for the Camino and dashed off to catch their flight to Spain. They are doing it in sections and started this time in Leon as did we. They are carrying their packs but set up every hotel before they left so they need to keep on schedule but always have a bed ready.

I realize I forgot to write about Cruz de Ferro, a very important place on the Camino. More about that later.

9:30 pm we toured the castle and had a festive dinner in the square at a pizzeria.

Di is doing much better. She was able to walk the half block with a walking stick and the pain meds and ibuprofen are doing the trick. We will evaluate as we go but the plan now is for the three to leave tomorrow morning and leave their bags to taxi with us at noon for a hotel named San Francisco above the San Francisco Monastery in Villafranca del Bierzo. We shall see how Di is doing after another couple of days but when I look at the elevation map we have many hills to cross. It does not look promising.

Gracias amigos for your love and care in reading and comments. Enough for

tonight.

Diane Hughes approves this message.

PS. Leo , Di sends a huge thank you for the Penetrex cream. It was a blessing until the inflammation got out of control. She would not have gotten this far without it.

The day started in the dark and moved most of the day in clouds. We had our first 6 k in high winds and light rain and cold. It seemed to go on forever. Chris and Mary are fast walkers and were way ahead of us. I kept thinking this has to be it soon. At the same time there was such beauty I stopped to snap a pic. Big mistake. I sweat so heavily I immediately felt the chill down to my bones. I kept moving. I came to a ridge and the wind was whipping harder and I started to feel a bit of fear. Kept going. Finally there was a town of 5 people and a place to stop. A fire was burning to our relief. I had an orange, and a protein bar and trail mix but still felt off. I added a banana and that did it. My clothes were still wet but my inner heat returned and we were able to keep going. We kept going up. We finally came to a town of one after another 6k. Enough to stop and rest for a few moments and relieve ourselves but he had not much to offer and we kept going. After more climb we finally came to the descent where the prayers started, you can see in the photos. Continually moving and trying to slow down as we try to find purchase and not break an ankle. This went on for about most of the last 6k. Our longest and hardest day. We arrived at ACEBO and again no room at the inn. Tour buses kept passing dropping off and picking up people who are here for a few miles of the Camino. That is where all the rooms went. We found beds at an albergue. One with three to a room and Chris in another. At dinner we compared notes on when the prayers started for all of us. We were very hungry realizing we had gone the day on juice and bread and nuts. The good news was Di’s knee was much better at the start of the day. Now, not so good. Blisters are getting better. And, we are all so proud of what we accomplished and amazed at ourselves. We all agreed we could not do that again the next day. Chris re read her notes from her Camino in 2014 and realized the next stretch out of ACEBO was more of the same down the mountain. We called a taxi and are taking a ride tomorrow to Molinaseca and then will walk into Ponferrada. We are getting the best hotel we can find and washing everything and regrouping for the rest of the journey.

The comic relief was when at one point the trail down crossed a road and we decided to stop for a moment for some chocolate and water. I looked back at the path of our descent and saw a man emerge carrying a shopping bag with a painting of a woman with a parasol. I got the giggles as he seemed so out of place. Mary looked and said, ” what in this picture does not belong?” We kept returning to the image as we struggled our way down. He offered us the comic relief we needed to keep our spirits up.

Hugs to all of you out there.