Category: El Camino

Leo said this morning he is missing his morning blog post to read. Here is my closing post for El Camino, the journey home.

We can add three more taxi drivers to our list: taxi dependable, taxi “he was so handsome I couldn’t look elsewhere”, taxi “I hope that pink rosary hanging from the rear view mirror saves our lives in Madrid rush hour traffic.”

We made it through a 24 hour day of taxi, air train, plane, 8 hour layover, plane, car, HOME. TSA was not kind to Chris throwing away her sangria with sombrero bottle that she bought in duty free at the airport and doing a private pat down.

There were giggles when the pigeon Di photoed from her convalescence bed in Madrid landed in front of us in the waiting area of the Newark airport. Maybe it was a cousin.

Otherwise it was a peaceful and safe journey home for all of us including Jonathan and Marco.

Leo brought flowers to the airport for Di and I, designed by Laura, cleaned the house, and made apple crisp. We were struggling to be awake but greatly appreciated all the effort and love.

This morning I smiled to open a fridge, move around a house, enjoy clean laundry that I did not wash by hand last night, soak in my bath tub, enjoy conversation in my home, make breakfast. All the daily activities that we had let go of for a few weeks to gather other simple activities that we add to the joy of life list.

Thank you all for being with me on this journey in your own way. I felt it daily and very much carried you in my heart. I now look forward to photos, cataloguing and sharing with the group, connecting them with my blog as to, “where and what is this?” And allowing the Camino to continue to offer itself in unknown ways in my life. As we say many times, “it is not the Camino we expected but an amazing Camino we would not want to have missed.”

If something new arises I will post but for now, may all our journeys be blessed, may we be guided and cared for by people who are gentle and wise, may we fully live each day in ways that we each are authentically meant to live, when we reach the end may we know it is just the beginning.

Muchas gracias, Muchas gracias, Muchas gracias.

After train and taxi, we are at Petit Palace, a hotel in Madrid on the corner of a busy shopping area. We arrived about 2, checked in and were guided to a lovely restaurant a block away where we ate our meal for the day. The wounded ones, Di and Mary, went back to the hotel for shower and rest. Chris and I walked a few miles enjoying the architecture and many shops and found a bookstore that had a selection of English books in the lower level. I have a few euros to spend so bought another Paulo Coelho book. We are now back at the hotel, everyone showered and reading or writing for the night.

The hotel has a morning breakfast buffet so our first breakfast in three and a half weeks that goes beyond juice, bread and coffee.

I have been having some very interesting dreams the past couple of nights with one night being in a game in the courtyard of the Camino, I cannot leave the courtyard as I am trapped by all the distractions in the courtyard. I awoke having to find my way out. Last night I was involved in a mystery story where Chris is ahead, I am in the middle and Di is at the tail.

Photos:

Di took a pic of Chris and I in the hall trying to get Wifi. Our hotel and neighbor cafe waiting for taxi and Madrid.

Today is out last day in Santiago. We woke to eat our breakfast next door at Pico cafe and bring cafe con leche back to Di. I took photos of our server and the cafe as she is very inspiring to watch in her work. She explained that she did indeed work very long hours as we commented on but it would calm down in October when the peregrinos are less in number. It is a family run business. Her young daughter showed up yesterday on her way to school and had her breakfast and did her homework at a table needing help and prodding from her mom. We could not understand the language but I very much understood the exchange between mom and her fiery daughter leaving her

Math homework until morning and not knowing how to do it. It gave us a good chuckle. It is hard to explain how this young woman effected us but it is as with many of our service people. Of course it is not everyone but clearly a genuine kindness that radiates from the eyes, attentiveness to what they are doing, pride in their work, and a calm presence taking time to do the job well. It is worth remarking on as we speak of it daily. We

think they would tire of us and find us a nuisance but we hear “thank you for coming, keep it coming, we can’t make it here without you”. The peregrinos are

the economy but this server had the same presence for all the locals who came and teased her, laughed, ordered and ate. Every cup of beverage, every plate of food, every glass of Zumo that she brought to our table she placed with a slight bow as an offering saying in a gentle whisper, “Muchas Gracias.”

We expressed our gratitude and we said our goodbyes.

You can see the catholic shrines mixed in with the bottles.

I then went out alone on a morning stroll through the city streets. People just beginning to move about, the bread deliveries, children going to school and workers stopping for coffee and tostada. I love using my intuition when I walk to find my way and I could do that very well this morning.

Chris went to 10:00 Mass at the Cathedral as there was a priest visiting who spoke English. I sat down in the hotel cafe with tea and the workers were trying to ask about Di. We finally understood each other and I could explain she had a bad knee. We think the room cleaners were passing on the word that she was in the room all day every day. They wondered if she was mal (sick).

Here is Di’s daily view of Santiago.

Chris and I went to Malak, the exotic vegetarian/vegan restaurant. The owner told us today he is closing down in November. We wished him well as he is an artist with food and another person who talked about his pride in his work. He is hoping to move to the USA and said to follow him on Facebook for his next restaurant.

Humus

Carrot soup

While at Malek, Mary and Jon and Marco arrived and we had fun chatting until we went on our way to the Peregrino museum and the history of the Camino and St James. It meant a lot to us to end our trip with the museum which brought a lot of the history together.

Tonight we found pasta, Di’s wish, and brought it back to the room. It has been fun to be here long enough to be recognized and remembered by wait staff who express delight in our return. Yesterday the woman server at Taberna do Bispo recognized me, reached for my two hands, practically hugged me and expressed so much warmth and care in her eye contact and smile. Tonight our gentleman at our Italian restaurant did the same in his greeting and goodbye.

We said our goodbyes at the main desk as we will be leaving early for the train. We have our packs ready to go.

We sat in our little circle after dinner expressing what this trip has meant to each of us, our favorite moments, people and places to stay. The pondering of such a journey as a pilgrimage will take some time but gratitude for this journey resides deeply in my heart.

October 2nd is my mother in laws 94th birthday. I hope it gave her all she wishes for in love and care.

The day was another laundry day and wandering the streets of Santiago and an irritating time getting tickets printed at the library for the train with old, slow, breaking down computer and printer in an otherwise beautiful facility. We met up with Mary, Jon and Marco, Jon’s friend who connected when we came into Santiago. We enjoyed tapas, sangria and chat. We are starting to feel our goodbyes to this city and the journey.

Di had another good day of rest in bed and chair. We brought up salads, pizza and vino blanco at the end of the day.

Jonathan sent us a photo he took at our first washing day in Ponferrada. You can see our absorption in having a strong wifi.

We are only a block from the cathedral and the portico where pilgrims walk through when they enter the courtyard of the cathedral. The portico offers perfect sound and there is constant music day and into the night. We can here it from our room as well as see the top of the cathedral out our window. The day begins with bag pipers playing and trading off throughout the day then later and afternoon other artists come one at a time to express their musical gifts, flutists, tenor, soprano, violinist, and on. It is always beautiful to me.

Chris and I went to our usual cafe for breakfast bringing Di her cafe con leche and Santiago cake. We left Di in the room to rest all day while Chris and I saw the San Francisco church, roamed the streets and bought a few trinkets for our loves back home. A big treat of the day was returning to a vegetarian/vegan cafe we saw when we returned from the bus to Finisterre. I could have ordered everything on their beautiful menu. We started with baba ghanoush with warm pita then on to chicken curry for Chris and vegetable curry for me. At the end of the day on Saturday, I said I have to find some fruit!! We had not been seeing any super Mercado’s. We turned the corner and there was a fruit store. Sunday morning I said I just want some veggies, maybe stir fry, grilled? Whatever. And then we remembered the restaurant we passed the night before. Perfecto!! Di is tired of bread, we are tired of pilgrim meals and want fresh food. I am not tired of croissants yet.

Di spent the whole day in bed. She slept all morning then read in the afternoon. She dropped a lot of fluid during the day and her left leg feels good but her right is still in pain. It is hard for her not to be out and about with us but the rest is good.

We bought vino blanco in our hotel bar, and agua grande with three glasses, bought three large salads for dinner and feasted with Di at the end of the day. Oh, yes, Chris and I found a pastry shop on the way back with salads and brought Di and us a chocolate whip cream delight.

This whole post has been about food. I am not sure what that is saying but probably that we are ready to return to our own food routines. I am wondering, however, what I will do without my empanada chocolate every morning. (Chocolate filled croissant)

A few photos: a rare depiction of Joseph dying with Jesus and Mary and an angel. after being removed from the cross, walking the town and food.

Reflection:

I am aware when I awake this morning the gradual shift internally that is happening as we are done walking the Camino and immersed in a city. It is subtle but the feeling of all pervasive love that is beyond what we call love, that I felt on the Camino, is diminishing with the activity of the city sights and sounds and energy. I noticed this pervasive love beginning in the walk, step after step, one with nature, but even as Di and I created a different Camino it stayed

present. It is said, and it is true as it is with any retreat that I have entered, the Camino really starts when you enter back into your life, creating spaces in each step for that all pervasive love to enter and be present in all relationships and activities. It is the Camino, the removal from our normal day that shows us this other reality that we long for, that fills our hearts and minds with a centered peace and love of all.

We are at the end of our ten hour touring day out to Muros, Finisterre (Latin) and Fis terra(Celtic) and Muxia, waterfalls, and more. Muxia was particularly interesting as it is called “coast del Muerte” the coast of the dead. You will see why in the photos as the church had many models of ships hanging from the ceiling. I imagine many tragic deaths in the sea for this community. One ship was from WWII. I realize it will take me some time to put the day together in word.

Just a short note tonight I think as it has been a very full, and now late, day by our Camino standards. We headed out early today for the credential office as the lines of pilgrims claiming their credential have been a couple of hours long. We waited in line about 45 minutes. They basically look at our Compostela which is our book we get stamped at every stop on our journey. They log where we started and now stamp it with the Santiago Compostela. They then fill out a formal declaration of our journey in Latin and our name written in Latin as well. You can buy a personal one for three euros but since I did not walk the whole way from Leon to Santiago I did not do that. I am happy with the Latin version. They had a lovely meditation in a chapel on our way out for our reflection on our journey. We walked out of that and there were Martha and Pedro walking in to get their credentials. Hugs around and a plan for meeting up at noon that ended up not working for them, disappointing but we are happy to have seen them one more time. We ran in to Corrine from Quebec and her gang of travelers.

We then went to a tapas bar and Chris treated us to tapas at her favorite place. Very very good! We then got Di back for a rest and went off to do laundry. Then back to get Di and then back to the Cathedral to tour and get a good seat for Mass as I wanted to video the botafumeiro. Jonathan and Mary arrived today and met us at the Cathedral. We then all went out for dinner at 9:15. Now up writing at 11:00.

Tomorrow we have to get to our tour bus by 8:45 for our trip to Finesterre, the end of the earth.

As I wandered the Cathedral and in the courtyard, I was aware of being with so many with such devotion, the beauty of gentle tears, prayers, prostrations, kneeling in silent prayer, as well as the joy of arrival and the joy of being surrounded in beauty and ritual. It is a sea of nationalities. Each day the pilgrims are prayed for that have received their credential, the name of the path( for us the French Way) and where started(Leon) and the name of our country. Tonight we received that prayer at the beginning of Mass.

I was able to video the swinging of the botafumeiro but will share that another way and day. I will need Brian’s editing skills.

Blessings to all..

Chris set out for Santiago about 8 AM and Di and I headed out to our Zumo, chocolate croissant and cafe con leche/ hot chocolate. We watched as a tour group of pilgrims lined up in a tight congestion and headed off. Chris said it was a beautiful start of the day in woods but the closer to Santiago and through the city was exhausting. Of course, I escorted Di in the taxi with Senior taxi kindness. A thirty something kind and happy man.

Our new lodging for tonight and the next 5 is Oxford Suites just a block from the Cathedral. We are in the room Chris was hoping for from the advertised photos, the attic room with a sky light facing the cathedral. I will take a photo tonight when the cathedral is lit. That is for tonight only then we move to another room tomorrow but are very happy for this opportunity.

While we waited for Chris, Di enjoyed three glasses of wine, for the pain of course, then she took a nap. It is a quiet day of walking and watching people arrive with excitement, taking photos and leaping for joy.

We had dinner of chicken or salmon for Di and half a plate of pimiento de padron and the traditional pile of French fries. Uncharacteristically, Di’s salmon came with boiled potato, a first! The pimiento de padron is a regional pepper that can only be grown and picked in 5 villages to be traditional. They state that most are mild but without knowing you will run into one that is “extremely hot”. Chris carefully nibbled. I wished my son in law Rob was here to eat them.

I have not had time to think about our arrival other than the thought that you could drive to our start at Leon in a little over two hours which is stunning when the journey of life we walked through physically, spiritually, emotionally and mentally could have only been done through the slow process of walking, meditating, processing, and praying for 17 days for the same distance. The unexpected road to Santiago. I lay in bed last night aware of a deep abiding peace, a smile on my lips and in my heart.

Post script:

Chris and I went to 7:30 Mass at the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela, arriving at about 6:50. It quickly became a full house. We were rewarded with the swinging of the botafumero by 5 monks. My phone was back at the hotel being charged but I was glad for that as Chris has seen it three other times and could take the shots and I could absorb the experience. I felt an electrical charge, tears and joy. Quite an experience. On the way to the cathedral Mass we walked through a portico with four arches coming together. A perfect spot for sound with a flutist playing with a recording, my first electrical charge of the evening.

We enjoyed our morning Zumo fresh, croissant/Santiago cake(almond cake) bananas and cafe Conleche/te verde. We had exceptional hosts last evening at Hotel Restarante Xaneiro and on we drove with taxi, sweet and sassy. A lively fun young woman who has visited New York and Washington DC and about 10 other countries. “Travel is important!”

We have been naming our taxi drivers (quite the way to do a Camino) we have:

Joyful/Exuberant

Taxi Ana with attitude

Speedy

Speedy no hands

Gracious gentleman

Sweet and sassy.

Each unique and interesting and we are grateful for their assistance on the Way.

Diane is in a good amount of pain and we will be happy when she can deal better with this but she is not a complainer. She is so happy to be here and experiencing the Camino. She got roundly scolded by an Irish woman peregrino after dinner tonight (about Di’s age) for not finding an osteopath as she did and has her knees all taped up. “Jesus does not want you to suffer like this!!” She made her point but kept going on in a louder voice and repeating herself. It was humorous at first but then began to feel abusive and judgemental. A confusing moment that we then walked away from

Di found a book at the give away section at the last hotel and is delighted. She read The Pilgrimage by Paulo Coehlo. Now Chris and I are reading it as well, an excellent companion to our journey.

We are now in Pension A Solaina in O Pedrouzo. We have been very fortunate with very good, very affordable accommodations. You can feel the excitement of many as we near Santiago. I was able to walk out on the trail when Chris arrived to meet her, then this evening I walked toward Santiago and back. The path to Santiago starts out beautifully in a path of trees. I know the miles are not important for what we have been living through on this Camino journey, but both Di and I want to reach 100K and we have made it.

We found Taste the Way a very fresh, homemade restaurant with reasonable proportions with real vegetarian options. Very very good! While we were eating dinner a peregrino group of spirited young people came by, saw someone they knew and burst into song, Feliz Navidad with great humor, and to rounds of applause. It lifted us and all.

Photos: we saw cows being herded outside our Pension, an art installation at Taste the Way, I saw a man pulling his pack with a cart, and I got some country air on the Way.

We arrived in Melide an hour earlier than expected with a gentleman taxi driver. Very kind and courteous. We picked up WiFi in the hotel cafe and ate too much toast and sweet rolls then the owner graciously got us checked into our rooms two hours early with free beverage and more bread.

Chris arrived about 11:30 with a short Camino walk today. The three of us then went out for a walk on the Camino that runs through the city then found paella, toured a couple of churches and walked a bit. It is disorienting being in a city with traffic, trucks and many peregrino walking through the city as three camino paths converge here before going on to Santiago. Again we have simple and lovely accommodations with husband and wife owners who are very attentive. Our room is a lovely respite from the outside busy activity.

We are all exhausted from being on wifi trying to book accommodations ahead. This is still high season here if just a bit lighter. It is hard to think. Chris and Di are resting in bed at 6:50. The good news is we are booked ahead through October 4th when we move to Madrid. Our only booking now is taxi and we were also able to book a tour to Finesterre.

Chris did meet up with Martha and Pedro from Merrit Island, Florida and enjoyed walking with them this morning. Pedro is origionally from Peru.

Besides eating too much bread, we enjoyed paella, vino blanco, hot chocolate that is like pudding, maybe all of that is having some effect on our brain as well.

The photos are from San Pedro church. You can see how the statues are dressed in real fabric clothing. The Sorrowful mother was the most heart touching as her expression captured the sorrow, loss, and mourning of a mother and all who loose a loved one. I lit a votive candle for all who mourn. Di shared with me that after our mothers death, she found in a box of sympathy cards and notes to our grandmother Regina, our dad’s mother, who received them at the time of our grandfather Adolph’s sudden death by heart attack, a note from dad’s Uncle Osias in Canada. The note told our dad, age 19, that he was now the man of the family, he had his mom and 5 siblings to care for. He put down his violin, never to be picked up again, and which he had played since a young boy classically and now fiddling for dances, and helped with the farm, started working for the Soo Line railroad, and then went off to war. He and his mother and all the siblings were present at Adolph’s heart attack with Regina holding him in her arms. All of us siblings know this grief story but hearing of this note confirming our father’s decision to set aside the violin sheds new light on this old story for this grief counselor reflecting on close to 30 years walking with others in grief.